Soy wax is a 100% natural wax derived from the vegetable soybeans. After the beans are harvested, they are then cleaned, cracked, de-hulled and rolled into flakes. Paraffin wax, one of the most popular candle waxes due to its cheap costs, is derived in a contrasting way. Paraffin wax is the product of the oil purification process from petroleum, coal, or oil shale. When you remove the waxy substance from crude oil, you’re left with paraffin wax. Soy wax is made from environmentally friendly, renewable resources; whereas classic paraffin wax is made from petroleum and is non-renewable. Not only are there “green” advantages to choosing soy wax over a different type of candle wax, but soy wax also burns slower than paraffin wax, meaning you get a candle that lasts longer. While all candles emit some black soot while burning, candles made from soy wax burn cleaner, therefore resulting in less soot.

We make both wooden and cotton wick candles, so this question is often asked by our customers. We love carrying both types of candles; it opens up so many new conversations and helps us have something for everyone. Wooden wicks are thin slabs or tubes of wood crafted precisely for candle making. They are all-natural, create a beautiful, soothing, crackling sound, but need a bit more attention and maintenance.

These are NOT flaws in the candles but natural characteristics of pure soy wax and are actually, a testament to the lack of paraffin and preservatives in soy candles. Neither of these characteristics, in any way, affects the scent throw or burning properties of the candles.

In a standard lighting situation, wood wicks can take a few goes to get started but once lit, should burn beautifully. Several variables can contribute to this but rest assured it can be resolved. If your wood wick candle won't stay lit, it's probably because the wick is too long, or it needs to be trimmed clean of the black charred material. Remember it's not the wood fueling your candle's flame, it's the wax. The flame is drawing the wax upwards through the wick, so if it's not trimmed short and clean, the wax can't make it to the flame.

For optimal burn, keep your wood wick trimmed to about 1/8" - this is shorter than you might think the wick should be. You'll also want to clean off any charred bits. For trimming, or taping off the charred bits, we've always found an old set of nail clippers or the end of your lighter to work great. In a pinch, you can always use your fingers to gently break off the burnt parts of the wick.

Believe it or not, your jar candles have a kind of “wax memory,” and once a burning pattern has been established, it can be hard to change. Give your candle enough burning time to develop a melted wax pool that goes all the way to the edge of the container on the first use - this can take anywhere from 2-4 hours.

If you don’t allow your candle enough time to form a full melt pool on the first burn, a little depression or “tunnel” may start to form around the wick. This will make it more difficult for the wax around the edges of the jar to melt, causing the tunneling effect to continue with each burn. Eventually, the tunnel will become too deep for fresh oxygen to flow in, and your candle will have trouble staying lit for more than short periods of time.

1. Hold your wood wick candle at an angle, & light the wick all the way across, not just on one end, ideally for 20-30 seconds, using a lighter, not a match.

2. Make sure your first burn always creates a full melt pool (liquid all the way across the top). This will ensure a subsequent burn to melt across and not tunnel. This will usually take anywhere from 2-4 hours.

3. Keep your lit candle away from drafts, children, flammable material, or pets. Light your candle on a heat-resistant, level surface, and please never move a lit candle.

4. Keep your wick trimmed! Knock off the black char that is leftover from your last burn, prior to re-lighting. This will help your wick light & not fizzle, or die out.